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The Wazwan — Kashmir's royal feast
Wazwan Way · The Royal Feast

The Wazwan.

Thirty-six courses, one copper trami — the feast Kashmir is named for.

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Bakery

Czochworu

Czochworu is a small, round, bagel-like bread with a soft interior and a hard crust topped with sesame seeds.

VegMildINR 10-204.3 / 5 popularity❀ Traditional Home-style Recipe

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Tourist Friendliness4.1/5
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Czochworu
History

Czochworu in Kashmiri tradition

Another classic kandur bread, Czochworu has been the traditional tea-time companion for students and office workers in the afternoon.

Tourist Tip

Best sliced in half with butter spread inside.

Where To Try It

Restaurants serving Czochworu

The Recipe

How to make Czochworu(Czochworu / Tsochworu)

Czochworu is Kashmir's answer to the bagel — a palm-sized ring of yeasted dough, briefly boiled and then baked so it comes out of the tandoor with a crisp, deeply browned base and a soft, chewy sesame-crusted crown. It is the late-afternoon bread, bought warm on the way home and eaten with noon chai before dinner.

Prep 48 minCook 30 minServes 8 ringsInvolvedShared (variants noted)
Ingredients
  • ·320 g all-purpose flour (maida), plus extra for dusting
  • ·30 g milk powder (or replace the kneading water with milk)
  • ·1 tsp active dry or instant yeast
  • ·1 tbsp sugar
  • ·1.5 tsp salt
  • ·2 tbsp neutral oil or soft ghee
  • ·180–200 ml lukewarm water, as needed
  • ·1 tsp flour whisked into 3 tbsp milk, for brushing
  • ·3 tbsp white sesame seeds (some kandurs use poppy seeds)

Waza Tips

  • The boil is non-negotiable — skip it and you have baked a soft roll, not a czochworu.
  • Make the centre hole bigger than looks right; a proud ring closes into a dimple by the time it is baked.
  • The flour-milk wash is the kandur's glue and glaze in one: it holds a thick sesame crust and browns to a lacquer.
  • Eat the contrast: crisp base, chewy crown. If the whole ring is uniformly soft or uniformly hard, something went wrong.
Method
  1. 1

    Dissolve the sugar in 120 ml lukewarm water, stir in the yeast and leave 10 minutes until frothy.

  2. 2

    Mix the flour, milk powder and salt, add the yeast water, oil and enough extra water to form a soft dough. Knead 10–12 minutes until smooth and elastic — it starts sticky and comes together with kneading.

  3. 3

    Oil the dough and bowl, cover, and rise about 2 hours in a warm place, until doubled.

  4. 4

    Divide into 8 balls. Poke a floured finger through the centre of each, twirl to open the hole to 3–4 cm (it closes up as the dough proves and bakes), and flatten slightly into a ring.

  5. 5

    Set the rings on greased, floured trays with space between, cover with a damp cloth, and prove 30 minutes until puffy.

  6. 6

    Bring a wide pan of water to a rolling boil. Lower in 2–3 rings at a time and boil about 2 minutes total, 1 minute per side — this is the step that builds the crackling crust. Do not crowd the pan.

  7. 7

    Lift onto a greased tray and let the surface dry 5–7 minutes.

  8. 8

    Brush the tops with the flour-milk paste and sprinkle heavily with sesame seeds.

  9. 9

    Bake on a lined tray in a preheated 220°C oven, middle rack, until the rings are deep golden with a hard, browned base — roughly 20–30 minutes depending on size. In the tandoor the base browns hard against the floor while the crown stays softer; judge by colour and a crisp knock on the bottom, not the clock.

  10. 10

    Cool briefly on a rack. Best eaten warm the same day; they revive well in a hot oven for 3–4 minutes.

Common Mistakes
  • ×Boiling too long, which thickens the crust into leather and wrinkles the surface.
  • ×Baking straight from the boil while the surface is wet, so the sesame slides off and the crust steams instead of crisping.
  • ×Under-proving before the boil — dense rings sink and stay dense.
  • ×Crowding the boiling pan, dropping the water temperature and gumming the rings together.
At Home

This is the kandur bread that translates best to a home kitchen, because the bagel method already assumes a boil plus an ordinary bake. The main gap is the tandoor floor, which hard-toasts the base: reproduce it by baking on a preheated baking steel or inverted cast-iron pan at 220°C, or by giving the boiled rings 2 minutes base-down in a dry cast-iron skillet before they go in the oven. One published home recipe bakes them a full 30–35 minutes at 220°C; smaller rings in a well-preheated oven can be done in 20 — go by deep colour and a hollow-crisp base.

Serving

Serve warm in the late afternoon with noon chai or kahwa — its traditional slot — split and buttered if you like. It also stands in well at breakfast beside girda.