Shufta is a decadent dessert packed with almonds, walnuts, pistachios, cashews, raisins, dry dates, and fried paneer, all coated in a saffron-infused honey syrup.
Shufta has historically been served at weddings and special celebrations, symbolizing wealth and luxury because of its use of premium dry fruits.
Tourist Tip
Extremely rich. Share a small bowl with friends at the end of your meal.
Fried cubes of paneer tossed with ghee-plumped dry fruits in a thick saffron syrup that carries an astonishing crack of black pepper. Shufta is Kashmir's festival sweet — dessert built like a jewel box.
Waza Tips
Fry the paneer cubes in ghee to a light gold and set aside.
In the 3 tbsp ghee, fry the nuts until just coloured, then add the dates, raisins, apricots and coconut and toss until the raisins swell; set aside with the paneer.
In the same pan, boil the sugar and water to a light syrup, 5-6 minutes.
Add the saffron water, black pepper, sonth and cardamom to the syrup.
Return the paneer and fruits and simmer, folding gently, until the syrup thickens and coats everything in a glossy sheath, 6-8 minutes.
Rest 5 minutes, scatter with rose petals, and serve warm in small bowls.
All ingredients travel — any Indian grocery covers the list; firm tofu can stand in for paneer in a pinch.
Serve warm in small portions at the end of a festive meal, with kahwa alongside.
Thirty-six courses, one copper trami — the feast Kashmir is named for.
Begin the feastA concierge that has eaten everywhere and slept nowhere — ask it anything about Kashmir.
Not a list — a seating. Scroll, and be walked from table to table.
Where Srinagar has eaten since 1918.
A century-old dining room on Residency Road that taught generations what a proper Rogan Josh should taste like. Unhurried, unchanged, unmistakable.
Enter the dining room
The wedding feast, every single day.
Wazas work the copper degs from dawn — the same courses served at Kashmiri weddings, plated for a table of two. Gushtaba here ends arguments.
Enter the dining room
The art of dining, facing the Zabarwan.
Modern Kashmiri fine dining — heritage recipes composed like paintings, served in a room of walnut wood and candlelight beneath the mountains.
Enter the dining room
Dinner beside the still water.
A boulevard institution where houseboat lights flicker across your table. Come at dusk, order Yakhni, and let the lake do the talking.
Enter the dining room
The tash-naer comes to you before the food — warm water poured over your hands. Nothing touches the rice before the water touches you.
The trami feeds four. Your wedge is yours alone; the far side belongs to a stranger — and to their trust in you.
No hand reaches before the senior one. Rank at the trami is measured in years, never in wealth.
The last course is the host's honour, pounded smooth by hand for hours. Declining it ends more than the meal.
Every pass and valley crossing in Kashmir, mapped by distance, altitude and the stops worth slowing down for. Drive one now — without leaving your seat.
One road, one steady climb into the meadow.
43.5 km · 1.5 hrs
The same valley, four different masterpieces. Watch it turn.
The valley wakes in tulips.
Mustard fields run gold to the mountains; mornings smell of blossom and wet earth.
Meadows climb to the snowline.
Rivers loud with meltwater, shepherds moving higher, days that refuse to end.
The chinars catch fire.
Orchards heavy with apples; every avenue burns amber, copper and rust.
Snow rewrites the valley.
Frozen lakes, pine forests hushed white, kangri embers glowing indoors.
No matter when you arrive, Kashmir has another story waiting.
Explore Kashmir
Honeymoons, one-day loops, hidden valleys, the best Wazwan near Dal Lake — Waza is the intelligence behind everything you just scrolled through.
Shufta is a decadent dessert packed with almonds, walnuts, pistachios, cashews, raisins, dry dates, and fried paneer, all coated in a saffron-infused honey syrup.
Shufta has historically been served at weddings and special celebrations, symbolizing wealth and luxury because of its use of premium dry fruits.
Tourist Tip
Extremely rich. Share a small bowl with friends at the end of your meal.
Fried cubes of paneer tossed with ghee-plumped dry fruits in a thick saffron syrup that carries an astonishing crack of black pepper. Shufta is Kashmir's festival sweet — dessert built like a jewel box.
Waza Tips
Fry the paneer cubes in ghee to a light gold and set aside.
In the 3 tbsp ghee, fry the nuts until just coloured, then add the dates, raisins, apricots and coconut and toss until the raisins swell; set aside with the paneer.
In the same pan, boil the sugar and water to a light syrup, 5-6 minutes.
Add the saffron water, black pepper, sonth and cardamom to the syrup.
Return the paneer and fruits and simmer, folding gently, until the syrup thickens and coats everything in a glossy sheath, 6-8 minutes.
Rest 5 minutes, scatter with rose petals, and serve warm in small bowls.
All ingredients travel — any Indian grocery covers the list; firm tofu can stand in for paneer in a pinch.
Serve warm in small portions at the end of a festive meal, with kahwa alongside.
