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The Wazwan — Kashmir's royal feast
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The Wazwan.

Thirty-six courses, one copper trami — the feast Kashmir is named for.

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wazwan Guide 8 min read

The Traditional Wazwan Menu: A 36-Course Breakdown

WazwanWay Team June 23, 2026

The Traditional Wazwan Menu: A 36-Course Breakdown

The phrase "36-course meal" sounds like an exaggeration until you attend a grand Kashmiri wedding. While everyday restaurants serve a curated 7-10 dish thali, a full royal Wazwan truly spans dozens of preparations. Here is what a traditional Wazwan menu looks like from start to finish.

The Foundation (Served with the Trami)

Before the feast begins, four guests wash their hands in a portable copper basin called the Tash-t-Næær. Then, the Trami (a large copper platter) is brought in. It comes pre-loaded with a mound of rice and the foundation dishes:

  1. Seekh Kabab: Usually 4 long skewers cut into halves.
  2. Tabak Maaz: 4 pieces of crispy, ghee-fried ribs.
  3. Methi Maaz: A flavorful stew of tripe and fenugreek.
  4. Safed Kokur or Zafrani Kokur: Chicken halves cooked in mild white or saffron gravy.

The Continuous Pour (The Main Courses)

Once the guests finish the foundation dishes, the Wazas begin circulating the dining hall with large copper pots (degs), serving the flowing gravies directly onto the remaining rice:

  1. Rista: Red, spicy meatballs.
  2. Rogan Josh: The classic red lamb curry.
  3. Daniwal Korma: Lamb in a coriander and yogurt gravy.
  4. Marchwangan Korma: A fiery, chili-heavy meat dish.
  5. Aab Gosht: Sweet and mild milk-based lamb.
  6. Lahabi Kabab: Flattened meat patties in yogurt.
  7. Waza Palak: Spinach, often cooked with small mutton balls.

(In a full 36-course spread, this section is heavily expanded with various organ meats, specialized cuts, and seasonal additions like Nadur or Haakh).

The Chutneys (The Palate Cleansers)

Served in small earthen or copper bowls alongside the Trami:

  • Muji Chetin: Radish and walnut chutney with a sharp bite.
  • Gande Tsitin: Onion and chili chutney.
  • Doon Chetin: A creamy walnut dip.

The Grand Finale

  1. Gushtaba: The final meat course. White, yogurt-based meatballs signaling the end of the savory dishes.

The Dessert and Digestif

  1. Phirni: A chilled dessert made of semolina, milk, saffron, and nuts, served in earthen cups (shikoras).
  2. Kahwa: Traditional Kashmiri green tea brewed with saffron, cardamom, and almonds to aid digestion.

The menu is a marvel of culinary engineering, designed not just to fill the stomach, but to guide the palate through a carefully orchestrated symphony of spices, temperatures, and textures.

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